What This Tank Does in the Cellar

A bright beer tank is the last vessel beer sits in before packaging. Carbonation finishes here, haze settles out, and the beer stays under counterpressure so it can be pushed to a filler without picking up oxygen. We build these as 1000L and 2000L units with a separate pressure vessel option, which is useful when the cellar also handles carbonated water or when one tank doubles as a blending vessel.

Build Details That Matter

Shell and dish ends are 304 stainless, 3mm on the 1000L and 4mm on the 2000L. Breweries running high-chloride water or acidic seltzer bases usually get quoted 316L instead, because 304 pits over time in those conditions. Product-contact welds are TIG, ground flush and passivated, with internal finish at 0.4–0.6 µm Ra so yeast and hop residue release during CIP instead of building a film.

Cooling comes from a dimple jacket on the lower shell, with an optional jacket on the cone. Glycol at 28–30% covers most cellars. Insulation is 80mm polyurethane under 304 cladding, which lets the tank hold 1–2°C overnight without the chiller short-cycling.

Pressure, Safety and Cleaning

Working pressure is normally 2 bar (30 psi), hydro-tested at 3 bar. A 2.5 bar relief valve sits on the top dish, and the pressure gauge is mounted on the CIP arm so operators can read it from the floor. The spray ball can be removed without anyone entering the tank — worth specifying, since a blocked ball is the most common cause of infected batches. Standard fittings include a 1.5-inch tri-clamp racking arm, sample valve, dry-hop port and a 2-inch carbonation stone port.

Specifications

Common Questions

Dished bottom or cone?

Bright tanks are almost always dished, because you want a shallow, fully drainable floor and no yeast cone to collect. If you plan to drop yeast in the same vessel, a unitank with a 60° cone makes more sense.

Can one tank handle beer and carbonated water?

Yes, provided the tank is rated for the pressure and the fittings are cleaned between products. Keep separate gaskets and hoses for each duty.

Do I need my own chiller?

Most 1000L setups run on a 3–5 hp glycol chiller. Two 2000L tanks crashing at once will need more capacity, so size the chiller for simultaneous cooling, not average load.

Tell us your batch size, beer type, number of fermentation tanks and available space. We can recommend the tank volume, cooling area and configuration for your brewery.