A 10,000 L tank is the point where fermentation stops being a batch experiment and becomes a scheduling problem. One vessel holds roughly 80–100 hL of green beer, and how fast you can crash it, dry hop it and turn it around sets your weekly output.

We build these as cone-bottom unitanks or single-purpose fermenters. The inner shell is 3 mm SUS304 as standard, 316L when the product is acidic, fruit-heavy or held for long periods. Outer cladding runs 2 mm, sometimes 1.5 mm on insulated non-pressure zones to hold weight down. Dimple jackets cover the cone and lower cylinder — that is where heat is generated during active fermentation. A 10,000 L vessel usually needs 6–9 m² of cooling surface to crash from 20 °C to 2 °C with 28–30% glycol at −4 °C supply.

Weld quality matters more at this size than on a pilot tank. Interior welds are ground flush, pickled and passivated, then checked with dye penetrant and, on request, boroscope photos of the cone-to-shell joint. Product contact surfaces finish at Ra ≤ 0.6 µm, with extra attention at the cone and bottom outlet where trub and yeast settle.

Pressure design is normally 0.2 MPa working on the inner vessel and 0.3 MPa on the jacket, with a spring-loaded safety valve plus a separate vacuum relief. Before running hot CIP, confirm the tank is rated for it — caustic at 80 °C and 1.5 bar stresses gaskets and seals harder than fermentation does. Cleaning comes through a rotating spray ball on the top manway; typical connections are a 1.5\” CIP line, a 1.5\” racking arm and a 2\” bottom outlet with butterfly valve, under 80–100 mm of PU insulation.

These vessels suit craft breweries stepping up from 10 bbl to 30 bbl, contract packers, cideries, and beverage plants running kombucha or functional drinks where one tank serves both fermentation and bright storage.

Specifications

Questions we get before quoting

• 10,000 L or 1,000 L? Different jobs. 1,000 L is pilot scale; 10,000 L is production. If your brewhouse is under 10 hL, a tank this size will sit half empty and chill poorly.
• One tank for fermentation and bright beer? Workable if it is pressure rated and the cone angle allows clean yeast dumping. Larger breweries usually keep the two roles separate.
• What chiller do I need? Size it for simultaneous crashing of your largest tanks, not the average load.
• How many tanks? Fermentation days multiplied by batches per week, plus one for cleaning rotation.

Tell us your batch size, beer type, number of fermentation tanks and available space. We can recommend the tank volume, cooling area and configuration for your brewery.